artists | Wendy Booth: Portrait Artist

You are probably here because you are considering sending me some photographs to draw. In which case, I encourage to to read this post and consider the principles set out below when choosing/taking your photos. However, we all lead busy lives and I understand many customers don’t have time to read and digest all the information, so if you are just about to click away from the page, then I’d like to draw your attention to just the two MOST IMPORTANT principles. (On the other hand, if you’d just got yourself a cup of tea and put your feet up, then please continue to the end – you’ll be glad you did!):
[content_band bg_color=”#ffe6cc” border=”all” ] [container] [custom_headline style=”margin: 0;” type=”left” level=”h4″ looks_like=”h3″ accent=”true” class=”my-custom-headline”]Daylight and Focus
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[icon_list] [icon_list_item type=”sun-o”]Take your photograph outside, out of direct sunlight. Even at midday on a summer’s day it is very hard for a phone camera (or average DSLR lens) to pick up enough light to provide any level of detail whilst indoors.[/icon_list_item] [icon_list_item type=”bullseye”]To gain enough detail for a striking likeness the image must be focussed. Most modern phones make this easy by allowing you simply to touch the area on screen you wish to focus (generally the eye). It is not necessary to create any fancy depth of field or even know what ‘depth of field’ means![/icon_list_item] [/icon_list][/container] [/content_band]
[block_grid type=”two-up”] [block_grid_item] [image src=”http://wendybooth.co.uk/art/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/black-white-photo.jpg” alt=”Backlit photograph for artist commission” type=”thumbnail”][/block_grid_item]

When drawing portraits, there are a few things I need from a photograph that are not necessarily the same things you would want from a portrait photograph. Most modern smartphones are perfectly suitable for photographing portraits and as long as you bear in mind a few simple principles, you will have no problem creating some wonderful images.

Resolution: Most smartphones have great resolution and as long as you take care to focus correctly then it should render enough detail. However, remember that although your phone may take a picture in dim light without flashing, this doesn’t mean it has enough light for a well-rendered picture. Good quality, diffused, daylight is always best (see ‘Light’ section below). To check the level of detail, take a close look at the image. Can you see individual eyelashes and lines on the lips?

Light: I prefer to photograph in natural light – outdoors or close to a window on a bright overcast day. I find this kind of light preferable for all photography and drawing. The diffused nature of the light means the facial features cast soft shadows. Stand the subject so they are facing in the general direction of the light, or up to 45 degrees away, rather than with their back to it.
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Professional studio photographers will often use diffused flash. This is great if using a single flash placed to the side, or even a single flash and reflector. Too many flashes will remove all shadow, which is great for fashion photography, but not so great for drawing, where some shadow is needed in order to create a three dimensional illusion.

Expression: In my drawings, I like to think I capture a personality rather than a moment in time. So, I encourage you to supply expressions of a pensive nature or a hint of a smile. This also helps with the illusion that the picture was drawn from life.

[block_grid type=”two-up”] [block_grid_item] Permission: If you supply any photographs that you didn’t take yourself then please make sure you have permission of the photographer.

Background: For my pastel portraits, I am drawing the subject’s head. I don’t care what the background looks like!

Finally: I am not judging your skills as a photographer. Just send me a few images and we’ll take it from there. [/block_grid_item] [block_grid_item] [image src=”http://wendybooth.co.uk/art/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Oscar-Contrast.jpg” alt=”Backlit photograph” type=”thumbnail”] [/block_grid_item]
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[columnize]Most works on paper require mounting (matting) with acid-free mount board and then framing in order to protect them.

As an artist or collector you will probably already have a strong eye for the right kind of colour but it’s always worth checking the little things. Will the colour of your mount lead the eye to centres of interest in the painting, focus the eye only on areas of shadow or negative space, or point out things you would never have considered, even adding a new dimension to the whole piece? The mount can be considered an extension of the painting’s background so ensure the colour is it subtle enough and of the same palette and warmth as the painting. All good mount suppliers will send samples on request. This makes it easier to see the colour relationships, and can save you a lot of time (and money) but for a rough guide some online stores will show your image superimposed on various mounts and frames. This can be quite a fun way of trying out different scenarios and stumbling on fantastic results you wouldn’t have dared to try otherwise.

The colours in my drawings are quite earthy. I wanted a mount of a much lighter shade than the grey paper but found the bright whites would give my picture a ‘dirtiness’ and compete for attention. I settled for a shade called ‘Snow White’ by Coltswold Mounts. It has a very slight pink tinge and feels as though it’s from the same palette as the earthy red pastel I draw with. The eye is now drawn straight to the picture and it receives all the attention it deserves. A mount’s (and frame’s) job is to present the work – if the first thing you notice is the mount then something is wrong.

Framing is far easier (actually cheaper) if the work is mounted with a standard size frame in mind. Mine allow for a 50 by 60cm size frame. I don’t frame the drawings myself because I find customers far prefer to choose their own.

The most common question, however, is – Should I match a frame to the picture or to my décor? And then the next question – Is it possible to do both?

Firstly, we should consider the style of frame and how the type of frame suits the art. Vibrant or abstract art will often fit best in a plain geometric frame of a black or bold colour.

Traditional genres, such as portrait or landscape benefit from a more ornate frame. possibly with some gilt or scrollwork. But, it’s always important to consider the level of detail in the painting – don’t overpower your delicate watercolor with a huge scroll-carved frame.

Also, you will want to consider the style of décor in the home. A dark, classical style will suit the more lavish dark frames, but if the painting itself is rather too delicate for this then perhaps consider an understated dark wood frame.

Something like a drawing or sketch can often be framed in a neutral colour or pale wood and fits well in either contemporary or traditional setting.

So, is it possible to fit the frame to both your art and your décor? With a little careful planning, most definitely, yes![/columnize]

Wendy Booth: Portrait Artist

Tag Archives: artists

Photography Guidelines

Choosing a Frame